Resistance to genetically modified crops in Europe was underlined yesterday when EU governments rejected an attempt to force Hungary to lift a ban on them.
Only the UK, Netherlands, Finland and Sweden among the 27 members voted that Budapest should allow in bio-engineered maize, although it has been approved as safe by food safety authorities.
Last year ministers permitted Austria to maintain a ban on the same product, MON810, which contains a toxin to kill pests and was created by Monsanto, the US group.
The entry of GM-friendly Bulgaria and Romania into the EU was thought to have tipped the balance but countries such as Romania and Spain, although they have planted tens of thousands of hectares of GM crops, voted against on grounds of sovereignty.
"It is a bad day for farmers and a bad day for science," said Simon Barber, of Europabio, which represents the biotech industry. "Ministers are refusing to implement the law they drew up."
Under a 2001 directive, the European Food Safety Agency has the responsibility to assess and approve applications to import or cultivate GM crops. The European Commission then asks national governments to approve them.
The decision will infuriate the US, which with Canada and Argentina won a case against the EU at the World Trade Organisation.
The EU claims that it has ended the moratorium that was deemed illegal by Geneva, but in practice no new crops have been approved for cultivation since. Only a handful can be grown and not many more imported for animal feed and processing, amid continuing suspicion among the public.
Green groups welcomed the vote. "Ministers took a bold decision today in defence of the environment and in line with European public opinion," said Marco Contiero of Greenpeace.
A European Commission spokeswoman said it would now examine its options. It could launch legal action or drop the effort to end Hungary and Austria's bans altogether.
"We have to acknowledge a political dimension," she said. "If people will not buy GMOs because of even the smallest doubt we have to make sure we eliminate that doubt."